Rather than purchasing a router mount, I cut one from 3/4″ MDF and hopefully will cut an aluminum one later on. If anything, cutting these will get you up and running until you have the money for a purchased one.
Attached is the DXF for the Porter Cable 690 router mount I made for my CNC router. You will need 2 pair of these to mount your router.
A few people have asked me for the drawings of my router so here you go. These are the basic drawings and I have a more in-depth drawing I will post at a later date.
One of the drawings is an overall drawing showing the dimensions of the 80/20 extrusions, flatbar, and ACME screw. The other drawing is a flatbar detail showing the hole locations.
I first bought a Galaxy Tab 7″ Wifi Only from Fry’s Electronics, but afterwards I found out that not only did Samsung remove the HDMI port, but also put in an older, slower processor in it to save on cost. The 7″ GT got great reviews, but that was the 3G version and not the Wifi Only version, so I returned it and got a refund (lost 15% restocking fee).
I then searched on Craigslist and bought the Sprint 7″ GT, and it also included an extra charging cable and car adapter, a silicone case, and a leather case so I think I still came out ahead. It was running Froyo as seen below. To check which version of Android you are running, pick Menu > Settings > About My Galaxy Tab and this is what I have:
Pvtjoker42 on the XDA forum posted the link to update Froyo to Gingerbread (post #238):
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1148447&page=14
I renamed update_from_EB28_to_EF17.zip file to update.zip then copied and pasted it to the root of the micro sdcard and tried to update the GT using the following procedure:
To boot your Galaxy Tab into the recovery mode do the following:
You then should see this:
As shown in the pic above, use the volume buttons down until you pick the update.zip, then hit the home key. I got the following icon:
It didn’t work, I got the following error:
I tried again, but nothing, then Meggyver in post #241 stated that he formatted a spare sdcard and put the update.zip on there and it worked. The 16 Gb micro sdcard in the GT had about 14Gb worth of stuff on it, so I put the update.zip on an empty 8Gb micro sdcard I had. I didn’t format it though because I didn’t know if it was supposed to be formatted to NTFS or fat32. It didn’t matter because this time I got the unpacking icon!
A few minutes later, I was rocking Gingerbread EF17 Android 2.3.4:
TLDR:
1: Put update.zip onto root of micro sdcard
2: Boot into recovery
3: Apply update.zip
4: If that doesn’t work, put update zip on an empty micro sdcard and go to step 1.
I was looking for a pendant to remotely control the CNC and found a few that were too expensive for me, such as the MP-02 MPG Pendant from Homann Designs, and some not so expensive, such as the ShuttlePro and ShuttleXpress from Contour Design. In the end I picked the Xbox. One, it was relatively cheap, and too, well it did everything I need it to do, such as move my X, Y, & Z axis, as well as have buttons for cycle start, emergency stop, fast jog, a button for macros, etc. In other words, it really does everything a pendent should do.
I downloaded the plugin from the Mach3 plugin site: Xbox 360 Controller LINK
installation was rather easy and as you can see in the vid below, it works great. By the way, a few have asked why I chose the wired instead of a wireless controller. I’ve heard mixed stories about the batteries not lasting long, and also having to restart the controller if the computer falls asleep.
With the wired, I have several feet to walk around, and right now I do carry it while I’m in the testing mode and the emergency stop has saved my a couple of times. I’ve been trying a few g-code samples, and I do not have the limit switches attached yet, so if I didn’t hit the emergency button, the linear carriages would have went off of the cold rolled steel flatbar.
Here is a great link showing the assembly of the 2′ x 3′ CNC router from Fine Line Automation. It is by a fellow that goes by the name jpz over at Overclock.net:
These are great vids of fellow CNC’er from CNCZone assembling his Fine Line Automation FLA-100. Even thought FLA posted the Solidworks Edrawings, it is not the easiest method to figure out how to put it together. My CNC is highly based on the FLA-100 rev 4, with the exception that mine is 1/2″ wider, therefore I’ll be using the vids to help me assemble it.
Fine Line Automation FLA-100 Build Part 1
Fine Line Automation FLA-100 Build Part 2
For some time I’ve been wanting to build a CNC router, but the cost was out of reach. There were also so many different plans out there, I wasn’t sure which one I wanted to build. I bought the RockCliff and Solsylva CNC router plans, but after some thought, I decided to go a different route.
Since I live about 10 minutes from the lake, humidly is a major problem. Many of my tools have rusted, such as crescent wrenches, files, and the column on my drill press. I started thinking that making a CNC router out of MDF might not be the best idea because I’ll run into problems later on as far as swelling goes.
I decided that a metal based CNC would be the way to go, but since I don’t own a welder, that limited me on what I could build. After Googling “DIY CNC” and other search terms, I found some builds using parts from www.cncrouterparts.com
These machines were built mainly from 80/20 aluminum extrusions. I have a miter saw, and with the right blade, I can cut the extrusions to size and there will be no welding involved.
Fast forward to now.
I purchased a 3-axis electronics kit from www.finelineautomation.com
After some help from the CNC Zone Forum www.cnczone.com/forums/index.php, I now have my electronics basically wired:
The next vid shows the E-Stop testing:
Now this is a pretty cool parrot, he rocks!
Just in case you need to wipe it clean and start from scratch.
